Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.

A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the path of a teenage Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's vibrant 1990s artistic milieu, progressing from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the style editor of the iconic i-D.

"That time was the peak of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I understood we’d be close. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday rolled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."

If Enninful sounds sentimental, he is in good company. Recently, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has grown intense. But since that time, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "I believe, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "This isn't just this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Cultural Backslide

This regression is hard to ignore: the resurgence of populist movements, the pushback against so-called "wokeness", and the reassertion of Eurocentric beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the Blair era, today a different political force looms as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of cultural optimism, has sparked debate once more.

According to Enninful, the solution has consistently been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, featuring a broad spectrum of influential figures from literature.

"People with a voice should employ it," he comments, referring to those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it did not offer my family a home and an education. That’s the Britain I believed in. I believe this phase will pass."

Hope in the Next Generation

He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

Those early experiences would shape a trailblazing career marked by fearlessness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first man, first black man, first openly gay person, and first disabled Black gay man to take the helm at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from varied communities. Importantly, sales increased.

"Ignoring large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he emphasises.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "change-maker".

"My nature is to challenge the status quo. I was brought up in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I was a minority. I was very shy. My teachers predicted I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … all that gave me a unique perspective both an insider and outsider."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as loud and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His path has involved hardship, including well-documented periods of depression and addiction.

He has also endured serious health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, leading to partial sight. "I endured such a difficult period for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s like PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to limit myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This determination to fit into a box has inspired him outside the world that built his career. He is now putting together a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, bringing together work by a group of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who lacked a spotlight at the time.

"Galleries sometimes neglected to celebrate the most relevant talents because they lacked the traditional credentials," he comments.

This project itself uses a different strategy, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of creative collaborations. "The question is, what can we do together? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform."

Looking Forward Without Fear

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected creative power brokers. His story, he believes, is a testament to the power of following your instincts.

What would the younger Edward think of the Edward of today? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we left our homeland. I almost lost my vision. So there is no room for fear. People have counted me out my whole career. But nothing can stop me once I’ve set my intention to do something."